The
commandant of the Chilean Armada, Punta Arenas office now requires owners of any
vessel, commercial or pleasure, of any nationality, show proofof full cover insurance
from a recognized underwriter (such as Lloyds or Zurich) before receiving zarpe
(port clearance) to enter or transit the canalsof Southern Chile. Previously yachtsmen
wishing to sail from Puerto Montt, through the canals to the Straits of Magellan,
Beagle Canal or Cape Horn enroute to the Atlantic, or in the opposite direction
from Punta Arenas or Puerto Williams north into the Pacific, had only to fill
out simple forms attesting to their boats' seaworthiness and specify the length
of time provisions and water carried on board could sustain the crew. A minimum
of thirty days self-sufficiency was and still is required.
This recent change, introduced to coincide with
the 2002-2003 summer (November-February), has caused several voyagers to re-align
their plans and face several thousand miles of unexpected passage making to reach
the Panama Canal, or to consider requesting clearance to a country north of Chile,
then keeping offshore to sail directly south and around Cape Horn. East or west
bound, this is 2200 miles of extreme condition sailing and eliminates any chance
to sample the maze of wild life laden canals that draw almost 20 yachts a year
to these windswept waters. Unfortunately, due to a sharp tightening of insurance
underwriters willingness to take on risk post 9/11 and because of the relatively
high risks that southern Chilean cruising presents, three cruising sailors we
met as we prepared to sail north bound into the Pacific from Puerto Montt, had
their insurance applications declined by major companies. Those who have been
able to obtain insurance are being offered policies with $5,000 deductible (excess)
at 2-1/2 to 3 times the premium rate normally quoted for cruising through Polynesian
waters.
Rodrigo Rojas, manager of Marina del Sur, in conjunction with other Chilean
yachtsmen in Puerto Montt, is working to try to get this new regulation modified.
In discussion with him and with officials of the Armada in Puerto Montt who are
under the jurisdiction of the Punta Arenas office, I learned the officials feel
insurance companies will not cover a vessel unless it has been fully surveyed
and its crew scrutinized as to seaworthiness and ability of crew and boat to face
the rigors of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. Some reasons cited for this new
regulation were the unfortunate loss of three lives in two separate incidents
in the past two years, plus several calls to the Armada for assistance in less
severe incidents such as when medical assistance was need after a 45 foot yacht
headed south through the canals, suffered a knockdown during which a stove broke
off its mounts to land on the cook. Insurance policies generally cover the cost
of removing any wrecked yacht that could be considered a hazard to navigation
or the environment, according to the officials I spoke with, along with guaranteeing
salvage costs.
Several yachtsmen brought up the New Zealand attempt to require
foreign voyagers to submit to inspections and prove they carried government specified
safety equipment before being given clearance to depart (known as section 21).
This act was tested in court by a group of yachtsmen and found to be in contravention
of the international maritime treaties, which require signatories to guarantee
free passage to all vessels. Section 21 was repealed. Unfortunately, these same
laws do not apply in this situation as the canals are inland waters and fully
under the jurisdiction of the Chilean Armada, and are not covered by international
conventions.
Though we doubt the new requirement will improve the safety record
of yachtsmen transiting the area, the alternative, considered by the Armada, closing
the canals to foreign yachtsmen, is definitely worse.
Ever since we began
voyaging, almost 3 ½ decades ago, we've heard tales of the paternalistic
attitude of the Armada toward not only visiting yachtsmen but their own fishermen
and sailors, with requirements of exact details of each vessels itinerary, plus
twice daily radio contact while in transit, and frequent port closures when winds
were forecast to exceed 35 knots. The reality of abiding with these requirements
turned out to be far from onerous during our voyage in these waters. One reason
is that radio contact is often difficult due to the terrain, lack of radio posts
and lack of other passing vessels so even once weekly reports to passing ships
sufficed to satisfy the Armada. Furthermore, ever voyager we meet here had reports
of the generous treatment offered by the naval ships they encountered including
invitations to secure alongside for the night in isolated anchorages and come
aboard for hot showers and generous dinners. An extreme example was one incident
reported by Charles Williams on 35 foot Nomad who, after almost 3 weeks without
sighting another vessel, made radio contact with a passing Naval ship. About an
hour after his long enjoyable radio chat with her captain, he was buzzed by the
ships helicopter which, on its second pass dropped an inflated package in the
water just off his bow. "Fresh baked bread, fresh fruit and a note wishing
me well. What a special treat," Charles enthused. One more reason he holds
these canals as the highlight of his cruise so far.
For more information from the Chilean Armada look at www.directemar.cl
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